Recipe 1: “Double Origin” Chocolate Ice Cream
(to make 1000g / 1.2L Updated 4-2019)
Milk Fat: 10.2%
Total Solids: 43.1%
Solids Nonfat: 27.6%
Milk Solids Nonfat: 5%
Egg Lecithin: 0%
POD: 100 / 1000g
PAC: 227 / 1000g
Recipe 2: Single Origin Cocoa Ice Cream
Appendix 1. Some Chocolate Basics
|Cocoa beans fresh out of the roaster. Thanks to Michael Laiskonis at the ICE Chocolate Lab.|
Cocoa % or cocoa solids %: In plain chocolates—unflavored and non-milk chocolates—this refers to everything besides sugar. It’s the cocoa mass from the cocoa pod. It will be very roughly half cocoa, half cocoa butter. So a 70% dark chocolate will be about 35% cocoa, 35% cocoa butter, 30% sugar. With some chocolates the cocoa butter can be as high as 60 or 65%. And with some specialty chocolates it can be as low as 45%. The best chocolate producers publish this information, so you don’t have to guess at what you’re working with.
Cocoa Powder Types: “Dutch” process cocoas are treated with an alkali, which alters the appearance and flavor. Dutched powders will be a darker, richer red, but the flavor will be milder, with less bitterness and astringency. Since dairy and sugar both take the edge off of chocolate’s flavors, you may find you can get a more intense flavor experience from natural process cocoas.
That is, if all else is equal. Which it never is. Most European cocoas are only available as Dutch process. The quality of the individual powder is more important than any theoretical difference in its processing method.
In baking, the distinction is important; if you switch between Dutch and natural, you’ll change the pH, and will often have to compensate with changes to your leavening ingredients. This is one area where ice cream is more forgiving. We only worry about about the fat and the flavor.
Which brings us to the fat: check the cocoa butter percentage. Cocoa usually has more than you’d expect, and the high-end brands (annoyingly) usually have the most. Be prepared to compensate for high fat levels.
Appendix 1. Chocolate Variety Tasting Notes
|Similar to the Coffee Wheel. Courtesy Barry Callebaut|
Appendix 2. Chocolate Review Sites
Appendix 3. Where to buy Chocolate
Appendix 4. The Future: Single Origin Cocoa Powders
|Bensdorp / Callebaut Natural Process São Tomé|